Sunday, 29 January 2012

This weekend...

The surf last Saturday was massive. So big that on Saturday pretty much every break on the North Shore was closing out. The beaches looked like a big mixing pot of whitewash. The only spots working were Waimea Bay and outer reef spots like Avalanches and Phantoms which are mainly tow-in spots. Even the conditions at Pipeline were so unruly that they post-poned the Volcom Pro until Sunday.

Avalanches - one of the many outer reef spots going off. 

Here are some highlights of my weekend:

Friday Night - Open Mic at at Universe Juice. My friend Nick and Cleo both played and both were really good. Nick got everyone up dancing and Cleo had a really cool bluesy sound. 

Saturday Morning - No surfing because the swell was too big to form rideable waves. So crazy to see the ocean so wild. 

Late Saturday Morning - Watch the opening round of the of the Volcom Pro at Pipeline until it was cancelled at mid-day. Click Here

Saturday Afternoon - Run into my shaper Jeff Bushman on the North Shore bike path and finally give him the Maple Syrop and SBC Surf Magazine I brought for him. My boards are awesome!

Late Saturday Afternoon - On the advice of Jeff I decided to check out a wave near Pu'ena Point. After watching it break for close to an hour I decide to paddle out. This wave was a massive bowling right and up close it was bigger than anything I have ever seen from in the water. After studying the wave from the line up I took off on a set wave. The drop down seemed to take forever and after rounding my bottom turn and looking up at the lip I can honestly say that this wave was the biggest wave of my life. After riding that wave I decided that it would probably be best not to push my luck so I paddled in and sat in my car for about thirty minutes literally shaking with adrenaline.

Sunday Morning - The waves were down and I surfed Ali'i's with Cleo. I tried out my GoPro but I was having trouble with it fogging up. Here are some shots before it got too foggy to shoot.

 Going Left
My morning commute. That's a banana on the dash.
One of many bails.






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