Recap

This is just a quick post. I want to get something down before heading out for the day. Expect some pictures later this afternoon.

Yesterday was EPIC. Like the day before we got on the boat in the morning and headed out to sea. First we surfed a wave called Namatu Lefts. We had the entire wave to ourselves and the gentle take off was perfect for Dex to sink his teeth into some crystal clear Fijian waves. Our boat driver helped push him into a few and Dex said that his paddling is getting a lot better. I cannot think of a more perfect place to learn how to surf!

When the tide filled in our privare left disappeared and we headed over to Cloudbreak - man was it perfect. The water was glassy and the waves were peeling perfectly. After about an hour the other two boats out left and it was just me, Mike and our guide in the water. Seriously it was like a dream come true. Three people out at one of the best breaks in the world! We surfed until we couldn't surf any more and I think I probably got about 50 waves. It was heaven.

Once back on land we found an amazing pizza place, ate, and crashed shortly after. What an amazing day!

I'm on a boat

Today we woke up excited for the boat and slightly nervous to surf. Mama made us some toast, jam and coffee and we ate while waiting for Teh. Teh arrived on time by Fijian standards – 15 minutes late - and we loaded up the boat and headed out to sea. After about a half hour of bumping along the choppy morning ocean we arrived at our final destination, Cloudbreak. Sorry Mike.

Cloudbreak is one of the most famous waves in the world. It sits about a half mile of shore from a small island called Tavarua and until only a year and a half ago was accessible only by guests staying on this island. Not even local Fijian’s, like our guide Teh could surf it.

As a wave Cloudbreak I am told has a few faces. On a smaller day like today it is a sectiony left point with a steep wall and some barrel opportunities. On bigger days it becomes a ferocious cross between Sunset Beach and Pipeline. The raw open ocean power hits the reef and creates a huge barreling racetrack fit for the likes of Kelly Slater and company.

Today as mentioned was a smaller day. Still way to big for Dex and at the cusp of uncomfortable for Mike who isn’t used to waves over ahead high and powerful. After soaking in the advice of our guide and studying the waves Mike and I paddled out carefully and waited in the line up.  Mike caught a nice wave before getting bounced off of the bottom and he called quits leaving satisfied with his vary valiant attempt. I surfed the longest and enjoyed the non-competitive attitude of the mostly visiting Aussies in the water. I’ve always struggled going left but I made it around a few sections and even pulled into a few barrels. Although I was very unsuccessful on all of my barrel exist strategies I nevertheless had an awesome surf and am very excited to get back in the water tomorrow morning.

The rest of our day was spent drinking beer on the beach, reading books and basking in the tropical sun. Not a bad gig!

Landing in Fiji

We left our Waikiki hotel room at 5am yesterday and after a brief layover in Samoa arrived safely in Nadi, Fiji – 3 boys, 3 bags and 7 surfboards all-intact minus the nose of one of my surfboards. Once through customs we were greeted by a lady from our hotel and driven to our accommodation down the diesel clogged and pot hole cover roads of the green Fijian countryside. Dex and Mike sat crammed in the back of the VW van with our gear and I rode shotgun on the left hand side with my camera out the window filming the many people and colourful hand painted advertisements that littered the shop fronts and the sides of the road. All of us giggled with excitement as we bounced along to the grind of the engine and the smell of burning sugar cane in the distance.

Upon arrival at our hotel we squeezed out of our ride and began to unload our bags. Our hotel is one part hostel, one part Malibu beach house and one part bed and breakfast. It is run by a kind lady named Moma and a cast of supporting characters who fill in as needed – our driver also proved to be an excellent chef and whipped us up some sweet and sour chicken with rice at our request.

Over dinner, which included a beautiful sunset and a few stubby bottles of FIJI Gold Beer we were joined by a surfboat operator named Tom. Tom told us that a bump was expected to hit and agreed to take us surfing on his boat the next morning. After Tom left Mike muttered to all of us, “I hope he doesn’t take us to fuckin’ Cloudbreak.”

Mahalo Hawaii

This post is a bit delayed because we haven’t had internet – I wrote it just after we landed in Fiji.

It’s hard to believe that my time in Hawaii is over and that as I write I have just finished watching the sun set in Fiji. The past 3 and a half months in Hawaii were amazing. I was so lucky to rekindle friendships with many old Hawaii friends and to make some new friendships that I hope will last a lifetime. Leaving Hawaii in many ways is like leaving home and I know that this is a place that I will always hold very close to my heart and always come back to.

To everyone who made my winter so memorable – thank you – mahalo.

Hawaii Recap

My friends Dex and Mike have arrived in Hawaii. They got in on Monday night and here are a few pictures of our adventures so far.

 It's didn't take long for Dex to get leid.

 Here the entire crew is with a new friend from Iowa.

 Eating local kine food - Malasadas

 Taking a peak at Jon Pyzel's shaping machine. Mike's eyeing one of John John Florences in process boards.

 In the shaping bay at Pyzel Surfboards.

 A couple of new sticks for our trip. 6'10 Next Step and a 6'5" Shortcut.

 We hiked out to Ke'ena Point to watch the sunset. No further comment is necessary.

Lighting the way home with Mr. Gittens.

Sharks

Yesterday there was a shark attack at a surf spot on the North Shore called Left Over's. The surfer, a 28 year old man, was bit twice in the foot by a ten foot Tiger Shark. He received 42 stitches from the Wahaiwa General and will be ok. (Read More Hear)

To quote Finding Nemo, "Fish are friends, not food."

I would be lying if I told that I'm not afraid of sharks, but to be honest it's not something I really think about while I'm surfing. I know I'm going to sound like a total hippy saying this but as a surfer I have really come to appreciate and find the ocean comforting.  It's such a special place for me and I can't help but feel so alive when I'm sitting out in the ocean on my board or riding down the face of a wave.


Seeing sea life, big or small, while I'm surfing is kind of cool and definably reassuring. I think it would be really scary if you didn't see anything other than surfers in the ocean. Seeing turtles, sharks, seals, fish and manta rays all let you know the ocean is alive. Thats a good thing an means that we haven't totally trashed the whole thing!


One a side note consider these stats:

Annual Risk Of Death During One's Lifetime

Disease and Accidental Causes of Deaths	Annual Deaths	Death Risk During One's Lifetime
Heart disease	652,486	1 in 5
Cancer	553,888	1 in 7
Stroke	150,074	1 in 24
Hospital Infections	99,000	1 in 38
Flu	59,664	1 in 63
Car accidents	44,757	1 in 84
Suicide	31,484	1 in 119
Accidental poisoning	19,456	1 in 193
MRSA (resistant bacteria)	19,000	1 in 197
Falls	17,229	1 in 218
Drowning	3,306	1 in 1,134
Bike accident	762	1 in 4,919
Air/space accident	742	1 in 5,051
Excessive cold	620	1 in 6,045
Sun/heat exposure	273	1 in 13,729
Lightning	47	1 in 79,746
Train crash	24	1 in 156,169
Fireworks	11	1 in 340,733
Shark attack	1	1 in 3,748,067

On the head