Pitted

The waves have been huge for the last few days. We have had a massive swell and most of the beaches have been taped off. With the exception of the outer reefs and places like Waimea and Pipeline everywhere looks like a big soup bowl. Here are some pictures of Pipeline from tonight. Enjoy.

 A thick one.

 Double or triple over head?

 Apparently Danny Fuller surfed Right Point in Seaforth one time. 

 Stand up barrels!

In a very bad place.

GoPro

Forecast

This weekend...

The surf last Saturday was massive. So big that on Saturday pretty much every break on the North Shore was closing out. The beaches looked like a big mixing pot of whitewash. The only spots working were Waimea Bay and outer reef spots like Avalanches and Phantoms which are mainly tow-in spots. Even the conditions at Pipeline were so unruly that they post-poned the Volcom Pro until Sunday.

Avalanches - one of the many outer reef spots going off. 

Here are some highlights of my weekend:

Friday Night - Open Mic at at Universe Juice. My friend Nick and Cleo both played and both were really good. Nick got everyone up dancing and Cleo had a really cool bluesy sound. 

Saturday Morning - No surfing because the swell was too big to form rideable waves. So crazy to see the ocean so wild. 

Late Saturday Morning - Watch the opening round of the of the Volcom Pro at Pipeline until it was cancelled at mid-day. Click Here

Saturday Afternoon - Run into my shaper Jeff Bushman on the North Shore bike path and finally give him the Maple Syrop and SBC Surf Magazine I brought for him. My boards are awesome!

Late Saturday Afternoon - On the advice of Jeff I decided to check out a wave near Pu'ena Point. After watching it break for close to an hour I decide to paddle out. This wave was a massive bowling right and up close it was bigger than anything I have ever seen from in the water. After studying the wave from the line up I took off on a set wave. The drop down seemed to take forever and after rounding my bottom turn and looking up at the lip I can honestly say that this wave was the biggest wave of my life. After riding that wave I decided that it would probably be best not to push my luck so I paddled in and sat in my car for about thirty minutes literally shaking with adrenaline.

Sunday Morning - The waves were down and I surfed Ali'i's with Cleo. I tried out my GoPro but I was having trouble with it fogging up. Here are some shots before it got too foggy to shoot.

 Going Left

My morning commute. That's a banana on the dash.

One of many bails.

Haleiwa Ali'i Beach Park

The wave at Haleiwa Ali'i Beach Park is one of my favourite spots to surf on the North Shore. It's has a bit friendlier vibe than a lot of the other spots and most days it's easier to get a wave here.

This last week there has been some size and on Wednesday morning the surf was firing. The wave going right was pretty crowded so me and my friend Cleo decided to try going left. After going on a fat left I got stuck on the inside when a set of twelve footers steam rolled me. Caught on the inside, stuck in a wicked rip, and getting closer and closer to the harbour jetty I knew that fighting the ocean back to the line up would be a bad idea. Instead I let the rip swing me around the harbour and then I swam a quarter of a mile around the harbour and got in at the beach there. Not fun... but I guess a good swim on a warm Hawaiian morning is better than running.

Click HERE to see the mechanics of how this wave works.

Hawaii Mix

The sound system in the Tracker isn't exactly Bose quality. I can't pick any radio stations and there isn't really anyway of getting the iPod going. I do however have a CD player so mix discs are in full effect like it's 1999. Here's my first track list. Let me know what you think and drop me a comment with stuff that's got to get on the next mix.

Fortunate Son - CCR
Let's Dance - David Bowie
In a Big Country - Big Country
Lonely Boy - The Black Keys
C.R.E.A.M. - Wu-Tang Clan
Rebellion (Lies) - Arcade Fire
Midnight City - M83
In For The Kill (Skream Remix) - La Roux
Sail - Awolnation
Animal - Miike Snow
Write It All Down For You - Elliott Brood
Juicy - The Notorious Big
Could You Be Loved - Bob Marley
Trenchtown Rock - Sublime
Young Turks - Rod Stewart
Ready To Start - Arcade Fire
Major Record Debut (Fast) - Broken Social Scene
Welcome to Jamrock - Damian Marley
Australia - The Shins
1901 - Phoenix

Who is JOB

So we all know Pipeline is a scary wave. Whether it's head high or triple overhead anyone who surfs Pipe is in a special class.

The other day I had a chance to to see Pipemaster Jamie O'Brien try something pretty crazy. While I didn't see him land it this Surfline article captures the final creation. Check it out... here.

Just because you can't see it...

Star Fruit

My friend Brandy has the most amazing backyard. She has grapefruit, avocado, guava and star fruit trees.

 Star Fruit

 Getting a ripe star fruit

Ana and Danny tasting the start fruit - so good!

Seven Mile Miracle

This video gives a pretty awesome visual about what life on the North Shore is like. Enjoy!

Free Aloha from Dark Fall Productions on Vimeo.

Work / Surf

I'm finally getting settled in and I feel like I've finally got a good routine going with the addition of my very stylish Chevy Tracker.  I've been able to surf everyday at least once and I finally feel like I'm getting the hang of surfing in Hawaii... if that is ever possible. I'll break this post up into two parts. Work and surf.

Work


I've been helping out at Camp Erdman in the maintenance department. Camp Erdman is a YMCA camp located on North Shore. It's an amazing spot out in the country and I'm really happy to be helping out Mark and Brenda who are the couple who run the department. Mark and Brenda are some of the most caring people I have ever met and everyday is a learning experience. Mark is truly a renaissance man and can fix just about anything. Over the past few weeks Mark has taught me how to change the oil in my car, install oil and air filters, install a bath tub, drywall a house and lay the foundation for a house among other things.

Surf


There is a reason the surf magazines call the North Shore the proving grounds.  The surf here is always big and powerful and the sharp reef is never more than a few feet below. Throw in a frothing and very talent surf population and you've got one of the most challenging, but also rewarding surf experiences imaginable.

If I told you I was ripping it up I would most be defiantly be lying. Most days out aren't without a couple reef cuts and sometime taking serious amounts of water up my nose when I get caught on the inside. That said I have also had a few solid rides and even a few barrels.

Over the past few weeks I've had the chance to surf some famous breaks like Rocky Point, Sunset Beach, Haleiwa Ali'i Beach Park and Laniakea's ... however I've put the most time in at Ali'i's.

Shit Surfers Say

Some Hawaii Surf

The wave out front of Camp Erdman.

Riding Dirty

Hey ladies. Check out my new ride!

More Pipeline...

http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/2012-da-hui-backdoor-shootout_64892

Reef Feet

Reef Feet - January 12, 2012

Quiver

Having a few boards is really necessary if you want to surf in Hawaii. Each one of my boards is designed to do something different and while it seems like a luxury to have this many boards it's no different than a golfer with a set of clubs designed to make different shots. Just as a golfer wouldn't use a putter to make a long drive, a surfer wouldn't use a short stubby board in overhead surf.

Boards from left to right: 

6'2" x 20 1/2 x 2 5/8: This board is for small waves. It's got a fat tail and a fuller shape which gives it a bit more float and allow it to be surfed in mushier waves. The shorter length also helps in smaller waves because it can fit on the smaller wave face.

6'6" x 19 1/2 x 2 5/8: This is one of two boards I got made up in Hawaii by a local shaper named Jeff Bushman. I really like this board so far and I've rode it a few times in medium sized surf. It's a bit thicker than my normal shortboard (see below) which helps it paddle quicker and lets me catch waves when it's crowded. You will notice that its got a more streamline shape than the 6'2" and a narrower tail. This is because since it's used in better waves with more push to them the board does not need as much width to keep it planning.

6'6" x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2: This is a my standard shortboard. I rode this board all fall in Halifax and I find it works really well on good clean point break style waves. This board was made by Jay Novak who has shaped about 5 boards for me, all of which have worked really well.


7'0" x 19 1/2 x 2 5/8: This is the board that I hope to ride most days. Its a 7'0" Bushman and it's designed to work in nice big waves. The extra length helps it paddle fast enough to catch a big wave and the narrow tail means that the board can dig in and turn on fast waves.

Good Surf Eh!

This morning was the best surf I have had so far. The waves were amazing and I got a few really fun rides. I also met a girl from Canada who moved out to the North Shore at the beginning of the winter and is going to be competing in the women's pipeline event in March.

After my session I had an Acai bowl with my new Canadian friend before heading back to work. Her surf coach is big wave legend Ken Bradshaw and I will hope full get to meet up with them for a surf over the next few days.

For now I'll leave you with a few points that will help you better understand what I just wrote.

Ken Bradshaw:

Acai Bowl: 

http://www.sambazon.com/recipes/

Full Moon

Full Moon - January 9, 2012

SURFING Rule Book

Rule No. 1,005: If you find yourself “scheduling” surf sessions, your priorities are officially out of order.

Bruce Irons @ Pipeline

Video of Pipeline the other day... Nuts!

http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/featured-clips/bruce-irons-jan-7th_64731

Pipeline

Pipeline - January 8, 2012

On foot, need wheels.

So I thought my quest for a car was over. But I guess not. The car I was suppose to buy tonight fell through, so the search continues. 


Without a car getting around the North Shore, or at least away from camp is do able, but requires a bit of patients and flexibility. Here's how my Sunday without a car went down:


6:00 - Wake up, drink coffee, call Marla, scope the Waialua side waves by foot. Waves are massive, reef is sharp, sharks are plentiful. I'll pass.


7:00 - Life at camp starts to come alive. More coffee. More wave checks. Massive waves still present, but so are the sharks and the reef.


8:00 - Breakfast. Eggs. Porridge. Juice. Apples. Fueling up for a big day.


9:00 - Ride found. Check.


10:00 - Finally to the surf. Hide my bag in the bushes and surf outside Pu'ena point. It's big, but smaller than everywhere else on the North Shore. 

10:00 - 3:00: Surf, Surf, Surf.


3:00 - Dry off and hitch hike to Pipeline. I get picked up by a surf school instructor. He's friends with everyone competing in the DaHui Backdoor Shootout. He calls Makua Rothman. I eves drop. So cool.


We get to Pipeline. He lets me out and I run into my Brazilian friend Ana and we watch Mark Healy and Bruce Irons pull into some crazy barrels.


4:00 - Hitch Hike back to Haleiwa. Get picked up by a guy from California who has spent 14 winters in Hawaii. We talk about surfing in Nova Scotia. Go figure.


5:30 - Dinner.


6:00 - Write blog.


7:00 - just about ready to sleep.

Morning Walk

Morning Walk - January 8, 2012

Up to Here

I've spent this weekend getting set up in Hawaii. Yesterday I took a trip into Wahiawa to try and find a car with no luck. I actually came pretty close to getting one but on my final check of the car I noticed that the horn didn't work. That kinda freaked me out so I decide to continue to look... hopefully I can get one soon because it's tricky to get around and check waves without one. 


I was successful however in picking up some boards. I got two custom made Bushman's, a 6'6" and a 7"0" step up. Needless to say im pretty stoked.. except for the fact that I already dinged the 6'6". Pictures of the Hawaii quiver to come.


I've also got wet a few times. On Friday I surfed at Ali'i beach park which is a wave that hosts one of the Van's Triple Crown events. (http://vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/reefhawaiianpro2011). 


Today I got three sessions in. One at Ali'i, one at Pu'ena Point and one at Rocky Point. Rocky Point was sick, although I only went on one wave. The crowd was pretty big and the waves were well over head and hollow. I also saw Jack Johnson and the Florence brothers on the beach and in the water. Rocky's is definably a wave I want to surf some more over the next few months.

Trip out

Packing up

Met up with my friend Alana after my connecting to Vancouver

Aloha!

So here goes. Last time I took a big trip I decided to write a blog. It was a good way for me to keep in touch with my friends and family and a nice way to remember my travels. Over the next six months I will be spending time in Hawaii, Fiji, New Zealand, Australia and Indonesia. I hope that you will follow my blog and let me share some of my good, bad and awesome stories.