Some thoughts

Thought One

It's hard to believe how fast my time hear on the North Shore has gone and how quickly the seasons are changing. Winter is slowly turning to spring and things are starting to look very different along this coast. The waves are smaller and the lines ups that were once clustered with traveling pros are thinner and almost all local. While it's nice to surf with only a few people out I miss the excitement that riding big waves brings. As beautiful as Hawaii is the added down time between swells (days with good waves) makes you a bit home sick and I realize how lucky am to have had my wonderful girlfriend and family visit me.

Thought Two

This morning I surfed at a spot near Sunset Beach called Kammieland and had a chance to talk with big wave legend Ken Bradshaw. One of things that is so cool about living on the North Shore is the access you have to people with so much surf knowledge. It's really neat to talk to people who have more experience than you could every imagine. Surfing hear is a learning experience everyday. 

Thought Three

My friend Cleo left today to return home to Canada. Over the past few months I have really enjoyed surfing with Cleo and it was nice to have a surfer of similar ability to push me. I think because Cleo was a few years younger than me I couldn't stand to see here get more waves than me. This pushed me to go on close outs and waves that I usually wouldn't. I can now say that I can successfully air drop any ten foot wave on to the sharp reef. Thanks Cleo!

Thought Four

A few weeks ago was my birthday and I was pleasantly surprised to find a card in the mail from my girlfriend's parents with a few nice little pieces of green paper stuffed inside. Thanks Max and Therza, you are as awesome as your daughter!

Here's what I bought with my birthday money!