Quiver

Having a few boards is really necessary if you want to surf in Hawaii. Each one of my boards is designed to do something different and while it seems like a luxury to have this many boards it's no different than a golfer with a set of clubs designed to make different shots. Just as a golfer wouldn't use a putter to make a long drive, a surfer wouldn't use a short stubby board in overhead surf.

Boards from left to right: 

6'2" x 20 1/2 x 2 5/8: This board is for small waves. It's got a fat tail and a fuller shape which gives it a bit more float and allow it to be surfed in mushier waves. The shorter length also helps in smaller waves because it can fit on the smaller wave face.

6'6" x 19 1/2 x 2 5/8: This is one of two boards I got made up in Hawaii by a local shaper named Jeff Bushman. I really like this board so far and I've rode it a few times in medium sized surf. It's a bit thicker than my normal shortboard (see below) which helps it paddle quicker and lets me catch waves when it's crowded. You will notice that its got a more streamline shape than the 6'2" and a narrower tail. This is because since it's used in better waves with more push to them the board does not need as much width to keep it planning.

6'6" x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2: This is a my standard shortboard. I rode this board all fall in Halifax and I find it works really well on good clean point break style waves. This board was made by Jay Novak who has shaped about 5 boards for me, all of which have worked really well.


7'0" x 19 1/2 x 2 5/8: This is the board that I hope to ride most days. Its a 7'0" Bushman and it's designed to work in nice big waves. The extra length helps it paddle fast enough to catch a big wave and the narrow tail means that the board can dig in and turn on fast waves.