The wave at Haleiwa Ali'i Beach Park is one of my favourite spots to surf on the North Shore. It's has a bit friendlier vibe than a lot of the other spots and most days it's easier to get a wave here.
This last week there has been some size and on Wednesday morning the surf was firing. The wave going right was pretty crowded so me and my friend Cleo decided to try going left. After going on a fat left I got stuck on the inside when a set of twelve footers steam rolled me. Caught on the inside, stuck in a wicked rip, and getting closer and closer to the harbour jetty I knew that fighting the ocean back to the line up would be a bad idea. Instead I let the rip swing me around the harbour and then I swam a quarter of a mile around the harbour and got in at the beach there. Not fun... but I guess a good swim on a warm Hawaiian morning is better than running.
Click HERE to see the mechanics of how this wave works.
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