Sunday 8 January 2012

On foot, need wheels.

So I thought my quest for a car was over. But I guess not. The car I was suppose to buy tonight fell through, so the search continues. 


Without a car getting around the North Shore, or at least away from camp is do able, but requires a bit of patients and flexibility. Here's how my Sunday without a car went down:


6:00 - Wake up, drink coffee, call Marla, scope the Waialua side waves by foot. Waves are massive, reef is sharp, sharks are plentiful. I'll pass.


7:00 - Life at camp starts to come alive. More coffee. More wave checks. Massive waves still present, but so are the sharks and the reef.


8:00 - Breakfast. Eggs. Porridge. Juice. Apples. Fueling up for a big day.


9:00 - Ride found. Check.


10:00 - Finally to the surf. Hide my bag in the bushes and surf outside Pu'ena point. It's big, but smaller than everywhere else on the North Shore. 






10:00 - 3:00: Surf, Surf, Surf.


3:00 - Dry off and hitch hike to Pipeline. I get picked up by a surf school instructor. He's friends with everyone competing in the DaHui Backdoor Shootout. He calls Makua Rothman. I eves drop. So cool.


We get to Pipeline. He lets me out and I run into my Brazilian friend Ana and we watch Mark Healy and Bruce Irons pull into some crazy barrels.


4:00 - Hitch Hike back to Haleiwa. Get picked up by a guy from California who has spent 14 winters in Hawaii. We talk about surfing in Nova Scotia. Go figure.


5:30 - Dinner.


6:00 - Write blog.


7:00 - just about ready to sleep.

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